Hands-on Shopping

BY Dan Berthiaume

Hointer Inc., a Seattle-based denimwear retailer, may be new (the first store opened in April 2012) and small (two branded stores in Seattle plus a pop-up inside a Levi’s store in New York City), but its goal is impressively large.

“We want to build a different store experience of the future,” said Nadia Shouraboura, founder and CEO of Hointer. “The store is divided into two parts, a showroom and a microwarehouse in back. We took traditional piles of clothes out of the showroom and into the back, where they are packed like sardines. That leaves a massive floor space where we can present the product in great detail.”

The first major encounter customers have with technology is the Hointer mobile app, compatible with any Android, iOS or Windows device. Customers without a mobile device are provided with a Nexus tablet.

Customers with NFC-enabled devices can tap products to bring up a page that works like the product page of an e-commerce site, offering a product description, Instagram photos and even competing prices. Customers without NFC-enabled devices can scan a QR code to load the page. If a customer wants to try on a product (mostly pairs of jeans), they can add it to their shopping cart and type in specific colors and sizes.

“It works like mobile site shopping,” Shouraboura explained. “You shop with a mobile device while everything flies around you.”

As customers add items to their shopping cart, the cloud-based “software brain” running the store sends a signal to the microwarehouse to prepare their delivery to a dressing room. Store management software runs on a public Amazon Web Services cloud, but everything else is proprietary.

When a customer is ready to try on merchandise, they are either assigned an open fitting room or wait to be notified by a buzzing sound on their device that a room is ready. An automated system provided by a German manufacturer picks items and delivers them via chute to the dressing room within 30 seconds. Shouraboura could not divulge specifics of how the system works, but employees with tablets can also manually pick items and send them through the chutes if needed.

Customers place unwanted items in a return chute for automatic return to the microwarehouse. Different sizes or colors of items they return can be automatically requested for delivery with the app.

“There’s no need to leave the fitting room,” Shouraboura said. “The system finds the item in the size and/or color requested and delivers it.”

To check out, existing shoppers can simply leave the store with selected items and have an account automatically charged. New customers or those who do not want to register with Hointer can also check out using in-store kiosks or by entering credit/debit card information into the app.

“Returns are almost non-existent because the customer can try on so many items with no wait,” Shourabora added.

Future plans include a current pilot of personalized suggestions offered through the app, with features such as Instagram videos of models displaying the product on a runway. Hointer is also experimenting with in-store stylists who can recommend items to customers based on their preferences and add items to their shopping carts with mobile devices.

“We’re a technology incubator,” concluded Shouraboura. “We run daily experiments.”


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Coldwater Creek Connects with ‘The New Fifty’


In August, women’s specialty apparel retailer Coldwater Creek, which operates 402 stores in 47 states, announced it had landed Deborah Cavanagh as its new chief marketing officer. She is charged with leading the multichannel brand’s marketing and creative services. One of Cavanagh’s first orders of business? To re-engage the Coldwater Creek core customer, as well as connect with new ones.

Cavanagh is uniquely in tune with the Sandpoint, Idaho-based chain’s current — and desired — customer. She came to Coldwater Creek from Ann Inc., where she served as senior VP brand marketing, Loft, and successfully transitioned Ann Taylor Loft to Loft. Cavanagh’s fashion roots run deep. Prior to Loft, she was with Vogue magazine as associate publisher, creative services. She also has held marketing leadership roles at Harper’s Bazaar and Self magazines.

“I’ve always been drawn to brands that are anchored in an authentic idea that transcends the product they sell and allows them to forge a deep, enduring, emotional connection with their customers,” Cavanagh told Chain Store Age senior editor Katherine Boccaccio. “My responsibility — and the thrill of my job — is helping that brand ‘unlock’ its power, attract new customers, build deeper relationships with existing customers and drive exponential results in sales.

”At Coldwater Creek, Cavanagh said, she and her team will connect with a target customer they call “The New Fifty,” and leverage the opportunity to move beyond a demographic to fully understand what shapes this customer’s values, her aspirations and her priorities.

Who exactly is “The New Fifty” customer?

Obviously she’s a boomer. But this woman is at a point in her life where she wants to confidently say, ‘This is who I am.’ She’s an empty nester (or almost), has a nice disposable income, is interested in living a rich life (versus a life of riches) and wants to live her life with meaning. And she places a renewed priority on looking and feeling great. But here’s the awful truth: She is generally ignored and vastly underserved when it comes to fashion and retail brands that she loves and is loyal to.

How do you view your role at Coldwater Creek?

The way I look at my responsibility is more holistic. I believe I’m responsible for delivering a vision, leadership and concrete strategies to deliver growth — in our client file, in traffic, and in sales and profitability.

That includes projecting a strong, differentiated brand image and voice that breaks through to create awareness and affinity, and contributes to client file growth and traffic. Strategies around engagement, retention and loyalty are critical to our success, and we will continue to build on the successful platforms we have and make them even more compelling.

How has the brand evolved?

Our brand has always been about engaging our customer on a more personal level, inspiring her with both new ideas and trusted favorites. As our business model evolved over time, we might have behaved as more of a retailer than a brand. I believe you have to cultivate both.

One core strategy we will embrace as a brand is to listen to our customers. We want to understand some of the universal truths that define “The New Fifty,” and those insights will inform our brand campaigns and the overall way we engage her and empower her.

We have a great brand story to tell and the ability to connect on a genuine, human level. I think as a leadership team, we’re all aligned on the fact that we need to “stand for something to stand apart.” Our reason for being will infuse everything we do — from the products we create, our vision for a season, to how we express our aesthetic and our voice, and the way we build our brand based upon community.

What marketing vehicles will be most valuable in the driving of the brand message?

I believe fundamentally that the powerful vehicles a brand has to leverage begin with the assets they own — windows, the store experience, website, catalogs, digital and social media. Our focus is going to be developing a clear and concrete brand platform, aesthetic, voice and contact strategy that improves awareness and creates brand affinity to attract our target customer.

I think our catalogs have the opportunity to become something even more powerful than a selling tool if we start to think about engagement and content. At the highest level, we want her to immerse herself in our brand, our collection, empower her with some style currency and inspiration around what to buy and why, and inspire her to act.

The experience of print can be immersive. We’ve been invited into her home, and it’s our responsibility to ensure that she wants to keep us on her coffee table and share it with her friends.

Our windows are owned real estate that can be leveraged to improve brand perception, cultivate affinity and make her want to come into the store.

Our marketing strategies will also focus on the idea of “disruption” — introducing ideas that resonate with the consumer and help us become part of the cultural conversation.

As we focus on behaving as an omnichannel brand, we have to recognize that digital has revolutionized the way people shop and communicate with each other. Our approach to customer engagement, social tools, mobile and online experiences are a very important focus.

In general, what trends are you seeing in retail marketing?

I think there’s a lot of predictability and sameness. Most retailers are fighting to drive traffic and sales with promotion, and it’s resulted in a numbing sameness. On a positive note, it’s exciting to see retailers like lululemon athletica focus on cultivating community by becoming destinations to engage around things that their customers want to be part of — from yoga classes before store hours to branded apps that serve a real value.

As retail brands, we need to challenge ourselves to think about how we can play a meaningful role in our customer’s life.

Describe your first day on the job as Coldwater Creek’s CMO.

It was the best first day ever. I got to join a team of the smartest, nicest, most passionate and invested people who live and work in a stunning environment. How good can it get?

How would you describe your leadership style?

I believe it is my responsibility to create and articulate a compelling vision of the future, along with strategies to achieve that vision and results. I surround myself with the best and brightest people — and push them to grow, to be their best while working as a team. I expect people to do their homework and challenge conventions to develop the best plan of action. I’ve learned over the years that it’s not only important to set a direction, but it’s critical to help your team internalize that vision of “future state” so they can constantly ideate against it and work toward it daily. That’s when the magic happens — in both morale and business outcome.

At the end of the day, I try to create a culture where our journey to fulfill our brand’s potential is both fun and rewarding.


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Stores of the Future

BY Barbara Thau

It’s 2020, and our shopper is ready to relax after a busy and productive Saturday. She started off the day at Kohl’s, where she tried on several cocktail dresses a store associate had texted her about earlier. The associate knew from past purchases that our shopper favored animal prints and a-line cuts.

She opted for a sleeveless, leopard-patterned dress that she accented with a nylon collar personalized with an Andy Warhol silkscreen. (Kohl’s 3-D printing department created the collar.) She checked out in a flash with a biometric scanner — traditional cash registers being largely a thing of the past in the stores she shopped.

Next up was Kroger, where she scanned the product bar codes with her cell phone on 17 items — from paper towels to skim milk. The items were charged to her credit card in real time and delivered to her home within an hour.

At Bed Bath & Beyond, our shopper sat in on a holiday-themed decorating class. Adjacent digital signs noted the in-store location of the featured items.

Finally, she stopped at CVS to pick up some items featured in the chain’s weekly ad circular, which had been delivered online, of course, with select ads customized just for her.

Retailers don’t need a crystal ball to see that, in the future, America’s shopping emporiums will resemble the scenarios outlined here. The fact is the transformation is already under way. Stores are becoming more efficient, more interactive, more immersive, more personalized and more convenient as the brick-and-mortar experience evolves to accommodate an increasingly digital world.

Going forward, look for stores to play up the advantage of letting customers touch and feel the merchandise, with less attention focused on maintaining inventory. Goods will be ordered and shipped to the customer, the store or a pick-up depot.

“In the future, stores will become a library of products. They will be more informative and with more options. They will double as showrooms — a way to learn new things, buy intelligently and improve your existence,” said Christopher Studach, creative director, King Retail Solutions (KRS), Eugene, Ore.

Checkout areas will be transformed as cash registers are streamlined to integrate mobile devices. Location-based services and the growing adoption of near field communication (NFC) will allow smartphones to act as stand-ins for credit, debit and loyalty cards.

Digital signage will be even more prevalent than it already is, keeping store interiors fresh and exciting. Digital enhancements will more seamlessly link retailers’ in-store environments with their offline ones.

“Stores will become nimble and spry,” Studach said, “changelings — in a good way.”

Savvy merchants will play up the personal aspect of physical retailing.

“Stores of the future will be social — engaging, intimate, designed for contact and conversation, educational in every way and filled with associates who love to talk to people,” predicted Lee Peterson, executive VP creative services, WD Partners, Columbus, Ohio.

What’s more, they will be captivating and inspirational, and more than just a store.

“The store of the future will rival night life venues in its ability to transform customers to an experience they cannot have online,” Peterson said.

Across the retail spectrum, merchants large and small are testing digitally enhanced stores that extend the click-and-buy convenience of the Web. They are reimagining the store from a mostly transactional environment to one that offers consumers an interactive, communal and even educational experience, with a sales staff that anticipates their preferences ahead of time and a layer of customized merchandise.

“In the future, the stores people shop are going to become an extension of their daily life,” said KRS’ Studach. They will reflect the way a person lives and their values, which means stores will feel more personal. They will be more local in look, feel and in the merchandising.”

Experts say that retailers also need to craft stores to accommodate digitally wired Generation Y, or the Millennials, a group that will outnumber baby boomers in size and buying power by 2020.

“Everyone is at risk of overlooking Gen Y, which will mature into the largest single cohort during the next few years,” said John Rand, senior VP retail insights, Kantar Retail.

Showrooming is also lighting a fire under merchants to affect change. In February, Best Buy revamped its price-matching policy to match the prices of major online competitors, as well as other brick-and-mortar retailers.

The rise of big data is also changing the in-store experience.

“Stores will continue to use more and more individually calibrated data to personalize the shopping experience across the board,” said retail consultant Jeff Green of Jeff Green Partners. “Rather than fear the customer who is looking up prices online while browsing in a brick-and-mortar location, chains will build more interactivity and provide more targeted information to further enhance the in-store buying experience.”

Community Hubs, Lifestyle Centers

The stores of the future will feature interactive bells-and-whistles that take a cue from the best of online retailing, while entertaining and engaging shoppers in ways that can’t be duplicated on the Web, experts predict.

Retailers will also tap into how shoppers interact with their favorite retailers on social networks, such as Facebook, said Scott Lachut, head of research and strategy at PSFK Labs, a content provider with such retail clients as Target and Best Buy.

“Retailers have created online communities. Now they are working to translate that offline, and have shoppers congregate in new ways,” Lachut added.

In a bid to connect with its core audience of small business owners, Staples and Office Max, for example, are experimenting with offering co-working spaces and renting out office space. And Lululemon Athletica has already amassed a cult-like following with experiential offerings, such as free yoga classes.

Retailers are ushering in a new definition of “one-stop shopping for time-poor consumers,” said Paco Underhill, founder of Envirosell, the consumer behavior research and consulting firm. Next, Underhill predicted, look for big-box chains to reallocate space to services, be it a dry cleaner or salon, which is commonplace at overseas merchants, such as France’s Carrefour.

Customized, Crowdsourced Merchandise

Amid the proliferation of choice available to shoppers online, one-size-fits-all retailing just doesn’t cut it anymore. In turn, retailers will tap technology to offer shoppers customized merchandise and a hand in the product development process.

“Appealing in a personal way is something shoppers are starting to require, and for stores that means more unique elements, more personality and a lot less of the one-size-fits-all approach,” said KRS’ Studach.

Traditional brick-and-mortar retailers are beginning to mimic scrappy online sites like Threadless, which lets shoppers design their own T-shirts, and Shapeways, where consumers design everything from jewelry to home decor.

At Converse’s new flagship in San Francisco, customers can screen-print their own designs and graphics to make one-of-a-kind items, culling from the retailer’s vast catalog of footwear, apparel and accessory styles.

The rise of 3-D printing is also expected to propel the growth of customized products. The technology could even fundamentally change the purchasing paradigm at home improvement chains, according to PSFK Labs’ Lachut.

In the future, such chains as The Home Depot and Lowe’s will keep digital records of their products and the model a shopper purchased, he predicted, and the merchant will be able to replace a part that is broken with the help of a 3-D printer. This means that consumers won’t throw away a broken toaster or fan as readily as they do today, and that retailers won’t need to carry as much inventory, as replacement parts are printed out as necessary.

At the same time, retail is ushering in a new digital era in the manufacturing of apparel that’s increasingly churned out by “factories run by robots rather than people,” Envirosell’s Underhill said.

In the future, he said, consumers will be able to customize their apparel at retail stores, facilitated by machines that can “cut, stitch and accessorize a garment based on personal measurements.”

“There are several technology companies from Korea with machinery to produce custom apparel,” Underhill added.

‘Showroom’ Stores, High Service

Tomorrow’s stores will be smaller, serving more as showrooms than football fields of merchandise, with a heightened level of personalized service. Indeed, the trend is already in evidence across all retail sectors.

“We’ll continue to move to smaller, more efficient layouts for many chains,” consultant Green added. “The deepening connection between a brand’s online presence and individual locations will mean less inventory and less space to accomplish the same goals.”

Increasingly, stores will seek operational and cost efficiencies by carrying less inventory and investing in technology, such as in-store kiosks and tablets, to showcase their extended online assortment.

The time is right, as online retailing and fast delivery has made consumers “more comfortable with the idea of the product being shipped to their front door, rather than walking out of the store with their purchase,” Lachut said.

Some retailers, including online menswear brand Bonobos, are already testing the showroom model. The e-tailer opened inventory-free Guideshop stores that offer a full display of merchandise and sizes for try-on only. The associates (“guides”) can focus their energies totally on providing one-on-one service to shoppers.

Similarly, an unprecedented level of personalized service built on the shoulders of digital retailing will begin to emerge at national chains, experts say. Merchants will start to leverage granular data on consumers’ shopping preferences in a brick-and-mortar environment, taking a cue from Amazon’s product recommendations, which are generated by its users browsing and buying patterns.

Meanwhile, RFID technology will bring store merchandise to life in new ways and spark add-on sales. Retailers, for example, already are experimenting with “magic mirrors,” whereby a shopper can try on a item of clothing with an RFID embedded chip in it and stand in front of a mirror equipped with an RFID reader. The reader scans the item and offers up a complete styled look of complementary products.

Online/Offline Convergence

Most consumers no longer see a distinction between online and offline shopping; some retailers are beginning to integrate that thinking into their physical spaces.

Formerly online-only eyeglass retailer Warby Parker is opening stores that combine the ease of online shopping with the fun and up-close experience of physical retail. Customers can sign in on an Apple iPad mini so that any website activity can be synced with in-store shopping.

The store is stocked with the full Warby Parker optical and sunwear collections. Nonprescription eyewear is available for immediate takeaway, orders for prescription eyewear and sunwear can be placed and picked up there (or shipped). Stores include a photo booth where customers can take a snapshot of themselves in a pair of glasses, and print it out or get a digital image via email for sharing.

According to WD Partners’ Peterson, one of the things that will most redefine physical retailing in the future is that the store ambience will go from warehouse to fun house.

“With the realization that anything can simply be bought online, driving people to stores instead of their computers will have to be emotional versus functional,” he explained. “Conversations with amazing people and a memorable environment will be the key in terms of trumping the functionality of pressing buttons on a machine.”

Stores will be more efficient, more interactive, more immersive and more personalized.


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